The alternator I bought from you doesn't work.

Each alternator is bench-tested before shipping. Apparent failure is usually due to ordering the wrong unit, shipping damage, or installation mistakes. Verify the part number, inspect for damage, and review the proper installation steps (Technical Tip TT-648) before contacting support.

The alternator I bought from you doesn't "put out".

Low-output symptoms are often caused by factors outside the alternator. Measure voltage directly at the rear of the unit with a digital meter; if readings seem low, check the common issues listed below or return the alternator for a free bench test.

High-output alternators ship with an overdrive pulley that may require a belt about 1 inch shorter than stock. Use a quality, oil-free belt to prevent slip and ensure full output.

Regulator plug not plugged in, not seated properly or pinched wire

Make sure the small regulator plug on the alternator is fully seated and oriented correctly. A pinched or missing connection will prevent charging. Self-exciting models (e.g., Fitzall 220A+) do not use this plug.

Battery warning light bulb in dash missing, blown or bad connection

Some vehicles rely on the dash battery-warning bulb to excite the alternator. A blown, missing, or poorly connected bulb can cause a no-charge condition.

Customer changed alternator pulley

Replacing the supplied overdrive pulley with a larger-diameter pulley slows the alternator and decreases charge output.

Vehicle crankshaft pulley diameter too small

Aftermarket under-drive crank pulleys spin accessories more slowly and can severely reduce alternator output. Ensure the crank pulley is at least OEM size.

Main vehicle charge wire too small or not upgraded

Factory charge wiring is sized for OE amperage. When loads rise, upgrade to a heavier-gauge cable such as the Big Zero kit to avoid voltage drop and false low-output symptoms.

Too many grounds, insufficient grounds, or just bad wiring

Improper, corroded, or excessive grounds-as well as undersized or poorly crimped wires-can cripple alternator performance. Have a qualified technician inspect and correct wiring.

Bad, old, weak, damaged or cheap battery

Weak or inexpensive batteries-especially some gel-cell types-may not accept the alternator's current. Use a healthy wet-cell battery with sufficient cold-cranking amps.

Alternator possibly damaged during installation

High-output units contain sensitive electronics. Skipping the recommended battery-disconnect procedure or other steps in Technical Tip TT-648 can damage the regulator and cause no-charge conditions.

The alternator I bought from you doesn't fit.

Direct-fit models require no hardware changes. Universal Fitzall 220A+ units need custom brackets and may require a shorter belt.

Do you sell brackets, spacers or hardware to mount the Fitzall on my particular application?

Due to the vast number of vehicles, PowerBastards does not supply custom mounting hardware. Most customers fabricate brackets themselves or hire a qualified shop.

I tested my alternator and it only makes 30A.

Alternators supply only the amperage the system demands. Clip-on amp meters can be inaccurate; 30 amps may be normal at low load. Send the unit in for a free certified output test if in doubt.

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220A High Output Alternator for Oldsmobile CUTLASS, 1982 - 1983 4.3L (260c.i.) (Diesel) wo/Gauges, wo/AC, w/HBW, 1st Prod

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Product ID 7127-3-220-HD8-218

220A High Output Alternator for Oldsmobile CUTLASS, 1982 - 1983 4.3L (260c.i.) (Diesel) wo/Gauges, wo/AC, w/HBW, 1st Prod

220A HD SERIES Direct Fit Alternator for Oldsmobile Cutlass, Cutlass Supreme, Cutlass Cruiser Wagon Specifications:

Total Output: 220+ AMPS
Idle Output: 110+ AMPS
Full Output: 220+ AMPS @ 1200 Engine RPM

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